Five Dishes at Parm
Baked clams ($10)
A lot of the cooking at Parm comes from looking at an old standard and wondering, Is there a better way to make this dish? In the case of baked clams, the answer was to shuck.
Many baked clams are already cooked before they’re baked (or broiled). This initial cooking opens the shells, which makes life easier, but it doesn’t do much for the clams. By the time they’ve been coated with bread crumbs and cooked a second time, they get rubbery, and they also lose some of their briny flavor.
Parm opens its very small littlenecks with a knife. When the clams go under the broiler, they’re still raw. And when the emerge, they’re still not completely cooked through — they are, if you can use this term about a clam, medium to medium rare.
Before going under the flame, each littleneck is topped with a chip of compound butter the size of a nickel. The butter contains crumbled sesame bread sticks, mixed with grated lemon zest, garlic, chile flakes and chopped parsley. It comes to the table with about a quarter inch of melted butter in the bottom of the dish, spiked with some of the juices from the raw clams.
Meatball parm on a roll ($8)
It’s hard to tell from this picture, but the meatball inside that roll is, well, it’s not shaped like a ball. It’s flat.
Meatballs, of course, are supposed to be round, but a round meatball has a disconcerting way of shooting out of a sandwich as soon as you take a bite. Mr. Carbone and Mr. Torrisi at first handled this the way many sub shops do: they put the meatball on the roll and then flattened this. Then they realized that they were facing an engineering problem that required a repair to the basic infrastructure of the sandwich.
“You know what happened was, I got tired of smashing the meatball,” said Mr. Torrisi. “It was upsetting to me to put the meatball in the sandwich and have to smash it. And I don’t think it wants to be smashed. I was like, listen, I’m going to make it as a patty and we’re going to call it a meatball.
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